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Stories, tips, and insights from life on the Adriatic. Discover sailing adventures, travel guides, and expert advice.

Sailing
FishingSailing
2 min read

The second day...

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There’s a moment I wait for with every new student. It usually happens on day two. The engine is off for the first time, the sail is full, and the boat leans just enough for them to look at me with wide eyes — half thrill, half “is this supposed to feel like this?” And I just grin and say, “Welcome to real sailing.” We run a small sailing school along the coast of Croatia, on the bright, salty-blue stretch of the Adriatic Sea that has quietly become one of the best classrooms in the world. Back when we started this business, people told us sailing schools were about knots, charts, and rules of the road. Sure. We teach all that. You will absolutely know your bowline from your clove hitch. You’ll understand wind angles, points of sail, right-of-way, weather patterns, and why “just a little more wind” is a dangerous sentence. But the real curriculum here in Croatia is awareness. The water is clear enough that students sometimes stare straight down instead of ahead. You see the bottom. Fish. The shadow of your own keel sliding over pale sand. Then you look up and there are islands in every direction — green, rocky, quiet — and suddenly the chart in your hands feels alive. Sailing stops being theory. It becomes geography, weather, and instinct, all stitched together.

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Anchoring and swimming
6 min read

Skippered Sailing vs Bareboat Charters: A Beginner’s Guide to Croatia

Skippered Sailing vs. Bareboat Charters: A Beginner’s Guide to Croatia Croatia is often called the "Land of a Thousand Islands," and for good reason. With its shimmering turquoise waters, ancient Roman ruins, and Mediterranean climate, it has become the premier sailing destination in Europe. However, for a beginner, the logistics can feel as vast as the Adriatic itself. The biggest decision you’ll face isn't which swimsuit to pack, but how you’ll command your vessel. Should you take the helm yourself with a Bareboat Charter, or hire a local expert for a Skippered Sailing experience? 1. Bareboat Charter: The Path of the Independent Sailor A bareboat charter means you are renting the yacht "bare"—without a crew. You are the captain, the navigator, and the safety officer. The Pros of Going Bareboat Total Autonomy: Your schedule is dictated by the wind and your whims. If you find a cove near Hvar that you love, you can stay for three days. No one is there to tell you "we have a schedule." Privacy and Intimacy: For honeymooners or close-knit families, having the boat entirely to yourself is a luxury. There are no strangers on board, allowing for a completely private experience. Skill Mastery: There is no better way to improve your sailing than by doing it. Navigating the Dalmatian coast yourself provides a massive sense of accomplishment. The Reality Check (Cons) Legal Requirements: Croatia is strict. You must possess a valid ICC (International Certificate of Competence) or an equivalent national license, plus a VHF Radio Operator's license. Without these, you won't even be allowed to leave the marina. The "Stress" Factor: You are responsible for the safety of the crew and a vessel worth hundreds of thousands of euros. Anchoring in a crowded bay during a Bura (a strong North-Eastern wind) can be a high-pressure situation for a novice. Maintenance Duties: If a toilet clogs or an engine belt squeaks, you are the first responder. 2. Skippered Charter: The "Stress-Free" Holiday A skippered charter includes a professional captain who takes over all technical responsibilities. This is the gold standard for beginners and those who want a "true" vacation. The Pros of a Skippered Charter Local Secret Knowledge: A Croatian skipper doesn't just sail; they know the fisherman who has the best octopus peka in a hidden bay on Vis. They know which ports get too loud at night and where the water is clearest for morning swims. The Ultimate Safety Net: If the weather turns, your skipper knows exactly how the local winds behave. You can sleep soundly knowing someone is monitoring the anchor. Hands-on Learning: Most skippers are happy to let you take the wheel or help with the lines. It’s like having a private tutor for the week. The Trade-offs (Cons) Budgeting for the Skipper: Expect to pay between €150 and €250 per day for a skipper, plus you are responsible for providing their food (either on board or at a restaurant). Cabin Space: Most yachts have a set number of cabins. If you hire a skipper, they will need their own cabin, which might mean you need to rent a larger, more expensive boat. 3. Regional Guide: Where Should You Start? Croatia’s coast is usually divided into three main sailing areas. Choosing the right one depends on what you want out of your trip. Central Dalmatia (Split & Trogir) This is the most popular area for beginners. The distances between islands like Brač, Hvar, and Vis are short, meaning you don't have to spend 6 hours a day at sea. It offers a perfect mix of high-end nightlife and quiet bays. Southern Dalmatia (Dubrovnik) Perfect for history buffs. Sailing from Dubrovnik allows you to visit the lush Mljet National Park and the medieval walls of Korčula. The winds here can be a bit more consistent, making for excellent afternoon sails. The Kornati Islands (Zadar/Ơibenik) If you want to escape the crowds, go north. The Kornati National Park is a rugged, lunar-like archipelago with over 100 islands. It’s quieter and more focused on nature than the party scene of Hvar. 4. The "Hidden" Costs of Sailing in Croatia When beginners see a charter price of €3,000 for a week, they often think that's the final total. To avoid "bill shock," you need to factor in these extras: Expense Estimated Cost Notes Mooring Fees €50 - €150 / night Prices depend on the size of the boat and the popularity of the marina. Fuel €150 - €300 / week Depends on how much you use the engine vs. the sails. Transit Log €200 - €400 A mandatory fee covering cleaning and local taxes. Tourist Tax ~€1.50 / person / day A standard Croatian government fee. Provisioning Varies Supermarkets near marinas are often 20% more expensive; shop in town! 5. Packing Like a Pro Space on a sailboat is extremely limited. The #1 mistake beginners make is bringing a hard-shell suitcase. Soft Luggage Only: Bring a duffel bag that can be folded and stowed in a small locker. Hard suitcases will be in your way all week. Footwear: You need non-marking, white-soled shoes for the boat and sturdy sandals for the rocky Croatian shores. Protection: The sun reflects off the water, doubling the UV exposure. Bring high-SPF reef-safe sunscreen and a hat with a chin strap (the wind loves to steal hats). Layers: Even in July, it can get chilly on the water at night. A light windbreaker is essential. Final Verdict: Which One Should You Choose? Choose a Bareboat Charter if: You have your licenses, you’ve sailed similar-sized boats before, and your idea of fun is being "The Captain" and managing every detail of the voyage. Choose a Skippered Charter if: This is your first time in Croatia, you want to prioritize relaxation, or you want to "scout" the area before trying to navigate it yourself in future years. Croatia is a magical place to lose yourself at sea. Whether you are pulling the lines yourself or sipping a drink while a pro handles the docking, the view of the sun setting over the Adriatic remains just as spectacular.

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